St. Charles Avenue Magazine Food Column, July, 2003
By Michael Depp

As someone who completely lacks the dexterity to hold and eat from a plate while standing and managing a wine glass (I'm hell at cocktail parties - all spilled wine drops and morsels of food), I had an excellent time at this year's Grand Tasting at the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience. NOWFE is a sprawling, ambitious assemblage of local restaurants and vintners from nearly every place that produces wine. It's also the likeliest occasion to see some of the city's best chefs in one place, all donating their time (and food) for the greater sake of the industry.

Food competitions were held over the two days of grand tastings, with some very deserving restaurants taking top honors. Friday's Best of Show award went to GW Fins, while the gold medal was a tie between Wolfe's and the Pelican Club. Saturday's Best of Show went to Cuvee, while the gold was split between Muriel's and the Grill Room.

In addition to the seminars and vintner's dinners that also marked the festival, the Royal Street Stroll had perhaps its best year ever, given that the weather was unseasonably mild and beautiful. I must extend my particular thanks during that event to the members of the Krewe of Cork, who were especially generous with their champagne. And among the numerous parties that were affiliated with the festival, I must also jointly thank Arnaud's restaurant and my colleague Lorin Gaudin for introducing me (caution fully thrown to the wind) to the exquisite taste of sweetbreads. I may not have Tony Bourdain's sense of culinary adventure quite yet (thanks, but I'll be staying away from the sheep's testicles and cobra hearts), but this was a bold step for me, and one well rewarded.

Celebrations, Transitions

Feel the ground shifting beneath you like chocolate mousse or some shaky souffle? There's change afoot on the local pastry chef circuit, which might not be tremendous news but for the talent of the two players in question. First, Joy Jessup, late of the Grill Room at the Windsor Court, is not moving to South Carolina to open a bed and breakfast as some circulating rumors would have it. Rather, she has moved on to work with Rene Bajeaux at Rene Bistrot. She will also serve as pastry chef for Bajeaux's new collaboration with chef Bingo Starr on Tchoupitoulas Street opening later this summer.

In her stead at the Grill Room comes Keegan Gerhard, a veteran of Charlie Trotters Restaurant and the Waldorf Astoria in New York as well as a former corporate pastry chef for Dean & Deluca. Both Pastry Art & Design and Chocolatier magazines have also named Gerhard one of the nation's 10 best pastry chefs. He began in late May.

In other news, it seems as though New Orleans chefs are regularly finding their way over to the James Beard Foundation's kitchen in New York, and so Anne Kearney of Peristyle will be heading there for a six-course dinner she'll be preparing on August 5. The menu includes Provencal Bourride; a duo of crispy duck thigh confit and lightly smoked, braised duck; and Peristyle's own unique take on baked Alaska.

Congratulations are also in order for chef Frank Brunacci of Victor's at the Ritz-Carlton. First, he was married in late May, celebrating with family and friends in a small party at the hotel. Secondly, he recently had the opportunity to cook for Victor Bero, whose grandfather (same name) owned the original Victor's restaurant in New Orleans. Bero was visiting from Atlanta and was duly impressed with how his grandfather's restaurant has been remembered in this new incarnation of Victor's.

Finally, it must be said that Brunacci, an Aussie, can finally watch Australian rules football matches from his home computer, which may now ensure that his talents will remain with us in this city for some years to come. If you haven't yet tried his French-inflected international cuisine, it really is one of the most sublime experiences to be had. We're lucky to have him.

Black Tie Collard Greens

I've never been a fan of collard greens - too much texture and a paucity of flavor for my tastes - but that was until my friend Golden Richard served some recently that had me greedily dipping in for seconds and thirds. His concoction, which I guess you could classify as a kind of haute soul, is topped with crispy pancetta whose grease is used to cook the greens (which completely absorb the flavor). This might be the first time in history that pricey pancetta has been put in service to far cheaper greens, but Golden is an iconoclast, and history is made of such moments. Enjoy his recipe.

Golden's Upscale Collard Greens:
2 large bunches collard greens
1/2 lb natural pancetta, sliced
1 large yellow onion, sliced
Beef stock
Champagne vinegar (available at Whole Foods) to taste
Salt
Pepper

Thoroughly wash collard greens and remove tough bottom stems. In a deep-bottomed, heavy pot, fry pancetta over high heat until fat is rendered. Reserve a few crispy pieces for garnish. Add yellow onion and collard leaves one at a time, stirring between each addition. Cover and cook until desired tenderness is reached, occasionally adding small quantities of beef broth to prevent sticking. Plan on at least two hours of cooking time for traditional Southern "doneness." Season to taste with salt, pepper, and champagne vinegar. Top with crumbled, crispy pancetta and serve immediately.